Storm Pump

  • Pumps 8.5 gpm
  • Delivers 100 psi,
  • Fits in any standard drilled well with the existing submersible system in place
  • Frost and weatherproof
  • Requires no lubrication
  • Will deliver from 300ft.
  • Pump head is heavy stainless steel channel, not sheet stock
  • Schedule 120 threaded and coupled PVC in 10ft lengths
  • Piston and connecting rod is 3/8 inch stainless steel, threaded and coupled in 6ft lengths
  • Easily installed without a hoist truck, can be mechanically driven

Installation Procedure

The following is an example description of our storm pump being installed:
The example well: casing diameter of 6 inches. A 4 inch PVC liner installed from 20 feet below grade to the bottom. The well is 250 feet deep with a static level of 70 feet. A 1 1/2 hp electric submersible pump is in place at 235 feet, mounted on 1 ¼ inch galvanized drop pipe connected to a pitless adaptor located 5 ft. below grade. The power wiring is taped to the drop pipe at 8-10 ft. intervals and extends through the well cap, then back down into the same ditch as the house waterline through conduit strapped to the well casing.


Preparation for installation

Assemble the needed tools and materials as follows:

  • Wrenches to fit the various fittings to be connected
  • The bottom 4 inches of a plastic 5 gal bucket with a 2 inch hole cut in the center (to place, inverted, over the open well after the well cap is removed.)
  • 1 bath towel or other cloth (to use as instructed)
  • 2 sets of pipe clamps or solid alternatives
  • 1 drill with Hole saw to fit a 2 inch exit LB electrical box installation through well casing
  • 1 LB of the same size
  • Splice kits and propane torch
  • Wire cutters
  • A simple tripod of 2x4s with a sportsman block and tackle hoist (optional but suggested)
  • Tighten the PVC couplings and stainless steel couplings

**Important: Before beginning, open well casings act like a mammoth black hole. Anything dropped within 20 feet will fall down that hole. When you remove the well cap, IMMEDIATELY put the bucket over the top of the casing! Failure to keep it there until the end of installation may result in problems that will cost you a sizeable amount of money for repair by a pump system professional.**


  • Turn off power to the pump system
  • Remove well cap by removing the bolts and lifting the cap and fittings (immediately cover the well with the bucket!)
  • Lift the bucket and pull the wire bundle out of the top of the well
  • Cut the wires, push the wire bundle back into the casing and down at least 1 foot below the top of the casing
  • Push the bath towel down to cover the wire and catch any metal filings that come from the hole saw cut.
  • Cut a hole in the side of the casing facing the route of the wire outside the casing.
    The hole should be at least 3 inches below the top of the casing to allow room for the well seal mount of the Storm Pump.
  • Cut the hole, carefully remove the towel and debris from the casing (IMMEDIATELY replace the bucket lid!)
  • Install the LB through the casing, per instructions.
  • Install the foot valve(s) to a section of PVC pipe, applying teflon tape to the pipe threads.
  • Install and pin a set of pipe clamps on the pipe. Be sure it is tight enough to prevent the coupling at the other end of the pipe from slipping past.
  • Slide the foot-valved end of the pipe through the hole in the bottom of the bucket.
  • Lower the section of pipe into the well. When obstructions are felt, rotate the pipe clock-wise and wiggle it gently until the obstruction is passed. The couplings will temporarily hang up on the pitless, liner top, etc. DO NOT push down hard and never hammer to get past an obstacle. Take your time. Stay in the center of the well so that entering the liner (in this example) is assured.
  • Rest the pipe clamps on the bucket. Get another 10 ft. section of PVC pipe ready to install by adding the other pipe clamp set to it and raising it into position to couple with the section in the well.
  • Three 14-foot 2x4s with a bolt through their tops, about 5 inches below the end. Now it is a handy tri-pod as a prop for the pipe. Center the top over the well. Hang the hoist from the top and keep it within arm’s reach as you raise the tripod.
  • Continue adding pipe sections in the same way. The “sportsman hoist,” attached to the top of the tripod and a loop of rope attached to both sides of the pipe clamps will carry the weight when you decide you want it.
  • (In cold climate) Drill a 1/8 inch hole in the bottom half of the last 10 inch section of pipe to allow water to drain back down below frost level. (In extreme climate, the drain hole should be well below frost level).
  • When the last piece of pipe is resting on the clamps on the bucket you are ready to install the pump head assembly.

Pump Head Assembly Installation

  • Install the short piece of stainless pipe into the bottom of the Pump Head assembly.
  • Install the rubber torque arrester on the lower part of the stainless pipe piece. Flare it for firm contact with the inside of the casing.
  • Use the hoist to suspend the pump assembly above the well and screw the assembly into the pipe stack in the well.
  • Cut the side of the bucket and remove it.
  • Thread the wire back into the well through the LB
  • Make the splice with the splice kit. Warm the splice kit gently until it seals the splice.
  • Now slowly lower the pump assembly into the well casing while easing the wires between the fingers of the torque arrester to be folded into the casing and keep at least 3 inches below the casing top to allow room for the well seal.
  • Tighten the well seal bolts very firmly. NOTE!! Never take loosen these bolts to the point of removal! If you do, the bottom plate of the well seal will drop into the well.
  • Install the rod guides on each rod section (stainless steel connecting rods)
  • Install piston/check valve to one of the rods
  • Remove the 2 inch rod seal (nylon, threaded piece) and top handle guide from the pump head
  • Insert piston/rod assembly into the 2 inch hole in the pump head. Don’t let it fall into the piping
  • Couple the next rod to the first and tighten the coupling with pliers. Keep any plier damage to the coupling area. Ensure both rods have their rod guide
  • Continue connecting rods. The last rod will need the square tube, rod seal, packing gland, and spring attached before installing. The hole on the square tube (for the handle attachment) goes down.
  • With the square section still above the pump head, attach the handle and guide bearing assembly. DO NOT over tighten the handle bolt. The handle must move easily.
  • Screw the 2 inch rod seal into the base of the pump head. Lower handle assembly into the side rails.
  • Install top rod guide block and handle fulcrum.
  • Install the graphite packing and packing gland.
  • Tighten all bolts
    YOU ARE FINISHED!! Pump the handle until water comes out. When you have pumped all you want, and live in cold country, wait a few minutes before capping the outlet piping to let the water drain out through the drain hole you drilled.